Kyushu Travel Guide: Uncovering Japan's lesser known island
Most visitors to Japan head straight to the mainland, usually Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto, but Japan is a hugely diverse country, so much more than just its best known spots.
Kyushu is Japan’s southernmost main island, and it's a haven of steaming hot springs, volcanic landscapes, and some of the country’s best food. The bonus? It really doesn't see the crowds of Honshu or Hokkaido, Kyushu is a big reward for travellers willing to go off the beaten track.
After a week exploring this beautiful island, I am sharing my Kyushu travel guide below.
How to get to Kyushu
Despite it not being on the main tourist trail, Kyushu is easy to get to thanks to its large international airport in Fukuoka, the largest city on the island and the sixth largest in Japan.
You can access the island by train or by plane, depending on where you come from, either one will suit.
Visiting Kyushu by plane
I came straight from London, so it was quicker for me to fly. There are no direct flights to Fukuoka from London but it was a quick 1 hr 30 flight transferring in Tokyo, one of the main international entry points into Japan.
I flew with Japan Airlines (JAL), and on the international leg I was lucky enough to try out their Business Class cabin on their latest A350-1000 aircraft from London Heathrow to Tokyo Haneda International Airport. (I also flew in JAL’s award-winning Premium Economy Class cabin on my way back to London, but I will share my thoughts on flying in these later!)
Japan Airlines provides exclusive domestic flight rates for international visitors exploring Japan, available through their JAL Japan Explorer Pass. The cost of a flight from Tokyo to Haneda can often be significantly lower than the price of a train ticket, depending on the season and how early you make your reservation.
The airports in Japan are extremely efficient, with good transport links between different terminals. We went through passport control, picked up our luggage, and took the train to the domestic terminal.
You can easily transfer between terminals at Tokyo Haneda International Airport using the Free Shuttle Bus or via the Keikyu Line, or Tokyo Monorail.
Our flight ended up being great timing, we left Heathrow in the evening and arrived into Tokyo by the late afternoon, meaning landing into Fukuoka by evening so we could head straight to our hotel and go to sleep, ready for the next day. There were plenty of taxis outside the terminal, but the main taxi apps in Japan are Go Taxi and Uber.
Visiting Kyushu by train
If you have more time than me to spend time travelling between cities, you can take the Shinkansen from Tokyo which arrives into the region in just over 5 hours.
Many of the train lines in Japan are operated by the JR Group, they offer a range of travel passes that can include further travel around the island.
Alternatively, you can reach Kyushu from various other Japanese cities by rail. Osaka takes between 2 hrs 30 and 3 hrs to reach the main city of Fukuoka. The Shinkansen from Kyoto takes a little longer, usually between 3 and 4 hours, but there are some services that take less than 3 hours.
How to get around Kyushu
Kyushu is a large island with much to explore. There is a good train and bus service on the island but my sister and I opted to hire a car in Fukuoka.
Having a car gave us much more flexibility on getting into the remote areas such as Takachiho Gorge and the Ryokan we stayed at in Kurokawa.
Tips on driving in Japan
The Japanese drive on the left, the roads are extremely safe and drivers are careful.
There are many expressways in Kyushu which are tolled, make sure you have cash to pay for the tolls, it is much more widely accepted than card. Alternatively, request an ETC card from the car hire company and the toll payments will be taken automatically.
Make sure you carry your passport and driving license with you on all occasions.
Be careful driving in winter. We visited in January and had to turn back on one of the mountain roads as it was completely covered in black ice, it was not worth carrying on, people were sliding everywhere. A good option is to hire a car with winter tires if you visiting between December and March.
Exploring Kyushu by train
If you want to take the train in Kyushu instead of driving, I recommend making the most of the JR Kyushu Rail Pass, available to international visitors only.
The JR Kyushu Rail Pass allows travellers to select their seats across the wider train network on the island. This pass also gives users the ability to freely select seats on local trains, limited express trains, and Shinkansen.
The Shinkansen is serviced from Hakata Station in Fukuoka, the main terminus, and from here you have many other options of train itineraries in Kyushu.
A popular option is taking the train along Kyushu's beautiful west coast from Fukuoka to Kagoshima, I recommend purchasing the All Kyushu Area Pass for this journey.
My 5-day itinerary in Kyushu
I recommend a minimum of 4 days in Kyushu, however the island is pretty big so if you can increase this time then even better! I honestly could have spent more than two weeks here visiting all the sites if I had the time. But sadly, time was not on my side, so below is my 5-day Kyushu itinerary which gives a great taste of the island.
Days 1-3: Explore Fukuoka
Fukuoka is the gateway to Kyushu and the largest city on the island, and one of the biggest cities in Japan, meaning there is a lot to see and do.
For the most comfortable journey, fly from Tokyo to Fukuoka with Japan Airlines (JAL), which offers frequent domestic flights from Tokyo Haneda International Airport. The flight takes approximately 1.5 hours, making Fukuoka an ideal destination for a short getaway or a longer exploration of Kyushu.
Things to do in Fukuoka
Discovering Fukuoka’s Shrines
Fukuoka was filled with amazing shrines and they shouldn't be missed!
- Right in the heart of the city you can find Kushida Shrine, the oldest shrine in Fukuoka. The shrine is dedicated to the gods of Ohatanushi-no-mikoto, Amaterasu-omikami and Susanowo-no-mikoto and was built on the emperor’s order in the 700's. Visiting the shrine is particularly sepecial during the Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival in summer where a symbolic gingko tree grows with two tablets of the Mongolian invasion on its base.
- Next is Dazaifu Tenmangu which can be visited by train from Fukuoka or by driving. The shrine is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the deity of learning. It’s has become a must-visit for students and anyone seeking academic success.
Sumiyoshi Shrine is one dedicated to the gods of Sokotsutsuo-no-kami, Nakatsutsuo-no-kami and Uwatsutsuo-no-kami, this was one of the highest rank shrines during ancient times and was said to be the greatest shrine of the Chikuzen area.
One of my favourites was Kora Taisha Shrine, located a little further out the city it was a 40-50 minute drive from Fukuoka depending on traffic. If you drive, make sure you have cash for the tolls or you will get stuck! Situated 312 meters above sea level, the shrine offers amazing views of the Chikugo region. I recommend visiting at golden hour, watching the city below turn from light to dark.
Explore the city on foot
I loved how each neighbourhood looked so different. I found traditional streets filled with Japanese lanterns, right next to more modern thoroughfares filled with the bright lights that remind you you are in a major Japanese city!
Exploring during the day was great, but by night it was even better as the city lit up. Night time was also fun to head back to some of the shrines that were also filled with the doft glow of lanterns.
More things to do in Fukuoka
Visit Ohori Park: A beautiful park with a large pond, perfect for a morning stroll or boat ride.
Tour Fukuoka Castle Ruins: A historic site offering gorgeous views, this is especially beautiful during cherry blossom season.
Head to Nokonoshima Island: This beautiful island is just off the coast of Fukuoka city and boasts seasonal flower gardens and great city views!
Visit teamLab Forest Fukuoka: This immersive art installation was made famous in Tokyo, it has arrived in Fukuoka and is a great place to spend a few hours, especially if you are travelling with kids - or if it is a rainy day as it's all inside!
Have breakfast in a bakery: Fukuoka is full of amazing bakeries, I will list some in the 'where to eat' section below, but you really can't go wrong!
Sakurai Futamigaura Couple Stones: Just one hour from Fukuoka city centre is one of the best sunset spots in Kyushu. The Sakurai Futamigaura Couple Stones are traditionally a symbol of happy marriage, making it especially popular with couples.
Day trips from Fukuoka
Whilst Fukuoka offers a lot, there are plenty of places nearby that deserve their own day trip.
Arita (Saga Prefecture)
Arita in Kyushu's Saga Prefecture considered the birthplace of Japanese porcelain, but also offers traditional Japanese pottery towns that are perfect to spend a day visiting.
The porcelain trade has been continuously ongoing here for over 400 years, exporting beautiful porcelain and ceramics to Europe since the 17th century.
Located near Arita, Imari and Okawachiyama are famous for Imari-yaki (Imari ware). Okawachiyama is particularly beautiful and well worth a visit.
Arita is just a 33 minute drive from Fukuoka city centre, or an hour by train. If you are visiting by train, you need to exit at Itoshimakokomae Station. From here it is a 33 minute walk to Arita but I would get a taxi!
if you want to explore the surrounding villages I recommend having a car for this one.
Nagasaki
Travel Time: 1.5 hours by train/2 hours by car
A city with a fascinating history, Nagasaki is home to Nagasaki Peace Park, Glover Garden, and the beautiful Huis Ten Bosch, a Dutch-themed park. Explore Dejima, the former Dutch trading post, and try Nagasaki Champon, the city’s signature noodle dish.
Kumamoto
Travel Time: 1 hour by train/1 hour 45 minutes by car
Visit Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s most impressive samurai castles, and Suizenji Jojuen Garden, a beautifully landscaped park. Nearby, Mount Aso, one of the world’s largest active volcanoes, offers breathtaking hiking trails and scenic views.
Days 3-4: Beppu
Located on the east coast of Kyushu, Beppu is a popular resort town known for its hot springs and mud baths.
Beppu is home to over 3,000 natural springs and more than 150 public bathhouses. I even came across steam baths just for your feet when walking around its historic quarter.
The whole city is literally steaming, with natural steam rising out of the ground and up between streets and buildings.
How to get to Beppu
You can drive from Fukuoka to Beppu, it takes just under 2 hours. The journey is mainly via an expressway which contains tolls. Many of these tolls are cash only, and the ones in which you can use card, you must have your physical card with you. I highly recommend carrying cash with you at all times or arrange to have an ETC card in your rental vehicle.
The train from Hakata Station in central Fukuoka to Beppu is direct and takes a similar time as it does to drive. The train is serviced by the Sonic East Kyushu intercity urban express.
Things to do in Beppu
Visit the Seven Hells of Beppu
The Hells of Beppu are the largest natural springs in the city. They are too hot to bathe in but incredible to visit, with steam rising high above to the sky.
These "hells" are spread across the Kannawa and Shibaseki districts of Beppu. You can buy a combination ticket for all seven hells or pay for each individually.
Take a mud bath
Beppu Onsen Hoyoland is one of the best places to experience a mud bath in Beppu. There are a number of different experiences, first you enter a hot bath (make sure you use the shower beforehand), slowly ease your body in to get used to the temperature! Next is the mud bath, you can enjoy the single sex mud bath, or head outside to the mixed gender onsen. Even in the mixed gender onsen, women are able to enter privately, and the milkiness of the water means nothing can be seen.
Have a steam bath at Kannawa Mushiyu
Founded by a Buddhist monk in 1276, Kannawa Mushiyu is similar to a Finnish sauna but uses sekisho herbs spread across the floor to help relax you, and the steam is natural of course. Due to the now rarity of these herbs, the Kannawa District is the only place you can enjoy a traditional Japanese steam bath using them.
Try a rotenburo
Rotenburo are open-air hot springs dotted around the city, choose wisely as some come with beautiful ocean or mountain views!
Explore Mount Tsurumi
Mount Tsurumi is the large mountain that overlooks Beppu, it's accessible via the Beppu Ropeway, which rises up 800m to a small park just below the summit.
Day 5: Explore the countryside and Kurokawa
Kyushu is home to some incredible countryside views, it is Japan after all. From Beppu you can head up the mountain road towards Yufuin where you can make a quick stop at Yufuin Floral Village - a purpose built tourist village that is designed to look a little like the Cotswolds in England.
From here you can then make your way through breathtaking mountains to Takachiho Gorge, one of the most beautiful views in Kyushu.
Takachiho Gorge is a river gorge lined by volcanic basalt columns with water cascading down, offering the view of multiple waterfalls.
In summer, the rental boats are the best way to enjoy the gorge, but there are views from above too!
If you have time (and light!), you can then make your way towards Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. This beautiful shrine is nestled amongst a cypress forest that surrounds Takamori. There are around 100 lanterns that lead up the steps towards the shrine.
Spend the night in Kurokawa Onsen
Kurokawa Onsen is a hot springs town around 50 minutes north of the Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine and just 20km from Mt Aso.
The town remains largely undeveloped, it is nature's paradise and the ultimate place to relax in Kyushu. The town is in a forested valley, home to wooden buildings, stone steps and a stunning flowing river that cuts through its centre.
There are a number of brilliant ryokan hotels to stay at, I recommend Kurokawa Onsen Oyado Noshiyu due to its central location, amazing service, and charmingly traditional guest rooms. Fumoto Ryokan is another great choice with a number of separate onsens, comfy beds, and a fresh atmosphere.
Travelling business class with Japan Airlines, is it worth it?
Travelling to Japan in Business Class is not cheap, you must make sure it ticks all your boxes before buying your ticket, but I am happy to confirm, Business Class with Japan Airlines is worth every penny.
We started our journey at Heathrow Airport in London where we where we got complimentary access to the Galleries Club Lounge. The perfect way to start a long journey, the lounge offered a great buffet, excellent drinks, comfy chairs and tables, charging points, and great views over the runway!
We were picked up in a buggy when it was time to head to the gate and we waited in the priority area before boarding the plane.
The Business Class cabin on Japan Airlines' latest A350-1000 international aircraft offers super comfortable suite-style cabins.
These spacious and fully private cabins come with a small wardrobe, lie-flat beds, a 24-inch 4K TV, built-in headrest speakers and free inflight wi-fi.
There is plenty of storage space in your cabin aside from the wardrobe, such as a cubby hole for your shoes, and luggage storage under the footrest.
There were excellent food and drink options, split between Japanese and western cuisine. Nibbles and drinks were served before the main meal which was a nice touch. Japan Airlines also provides an à la carte menu that you can order from at any time after the main meal service.
Is Premium Economy a good option with Japan Airlines?
If the price tag of Business Class doesn't fit into your budget, I highly recommend you take a look at the Premium Economy option.
Japan Airline recently won SKYTRAX's World's Best Premium Economy Class in 2024 and I think it was highly deserved. I can't tell you how many airlines I have flown on, and this Premium cabin blows the rest out the water, by a long way.
Firstly, unlike many other airlines, we were able to access a lounge with our Premium Economy boarding pass. Flying back home from Tokyo, we spent an hour in Japan Airline's Sakura Lounge at Tokyo's Haneda Airport where we enjoyed watching the planes taxi whilst eating breakfast and drinking a morning tea.
Before boarding I was apprehensive as I was in a middle seat, but my worries were unfounded. When I reached my seat I realised they offered privacy screens, so sitting next to two strangers was no issue at all.
The seats the spacious, the Premium Economy cabin section itself was small with just a few rows of seats, offering a more intimate and private experience.
The highlight for me was being able to recline without worrying about bumping the person behind me as the seats are designed in a way they recline in their own space, not encroaching on anyone else's!
Electric seats meant a smooth decline, as well as leg rests that incline up to 90 degrees so you can really stretch out.
The 16-inch 4K TVs felt significantly larger than the average aeroplane monitor, but there is also a tablet tray meaning you can watch things easily on your iPad too. In Premium Economy and Economy Class, you also receive one hour of free inflight wi-fi.
The tray table was large enough to easily accommodate my laptop, which unfortunately meant I had no excuse to not work on the flight. There was also easy to access plug sockets so i never ran out of charge.
Do I think the Japan Airlines Premium Economy is overhyped? No way, this experience is worth every penny, and some.
