How to Travel Through Puglia Without a Car (2026 Guide)
I've visited Puglia twice, once with a hire car, once entirely without one. The car trip was easier, I won't pretend otherwise. But the car-free trip taught me far more about the region, forced me into conversations with locals I'd never have had otherwise, and cost me significantly less.
The honest truth about travelling Puglia without a car is that it depends entirely on what you want to see and how much flexibility you're comfortable with.
The coastal towns between Bari and Brindisi (Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Ostuni) are super easy by train and these are the main visiting spots anyway.
The further south you go into Salento, or the further inland towards Alberobello and the trulli country, the more planning and patience it requires.
This guide is based on both trips. I'll tell you exactly what works, what doesn't, where the train will serve you brilliantly, and where you might want to consider a local tour or taxi instead. Travelling through Italy by train is straightforward and it's an enjoyable mode of transport too!
Getting around Puglia by train
Italy's train network is one of the better ones in Europe, and in Puglia it'll do most of the heavy lifting for you, at least between the main coastal towns. Before you travel though, there are two things worth knowing that catch a surprising number of visitors out.
Booking Italian train tickets
I book everything through Trainline, which stores all your tickets in one app and means you're not fumbling around at the station. For the main intercity routes such as Bari to Brindisi and Brindisi to Lecce, I'd recommend booking in advance, especially in summer when trains fill up.
For the shorter hops between coastal towns like Bari to Polignano or Monopoli, you can usually buy on the day without any issue.
Validate your tickets: don't skip this
This is the one that catches people every time. If you buy a paper ticket at the station rather than through an app, you must stamp it in the yellow validation machines on the platform before you board.
I once got fined €60 the first time I took a train in Italy because I didn't know this rule existed.
If you can't find a validation machine (occasionally they're tucked away) ask station staff immediately rather than boarding and hoping for the best.
Tickets booked through Trainline are digital and don't need validating, which is one less thing to think about and why I always use this!
Which towns in Puglia can you reach by train?
Not everywhere in Puglia has a train station, and this is probably the most important thing to understand before you start planning.
The rail network is excellent along the coast between Bari and Lecce, but venture inland or down into the Salento peninsula and it gets patchier. Knowing this upfront saves a lot of frustration later.
Most people fly into Bari, which works in your favour. Bari Centrale is the main transport hub for the entire region, and a direct train connects the airport to the city centre in around 15 minutes. From Bari, you can reach the majority of Puglia's most visited towns by train without any issues.
Below I've broken down each town reachable by train from Bari, with journey times, rough costs, and what to expect when you get there. After that, I've put together a suggested car-free itinerary that strings them together in a logical order.
One practical note before we get into it: the towns I cover here are all well connected. If somewhere you've seen on Instagram isn't on this list, eg. Alberobello, Castellana Grotte, some of the Salento beaches, that's deliberate. I'll cover those separately and honestly, because the transport situation there is a different story entirely.
Polignano a Mare
If you've spent any time looking at Italy on Instagram, you've almost certainly seen Polignano a Mare without realising it... the town built into white cliffs above the Adriatic, with that impossibly blue cove below.
Beyond the cliffs and the famous beach at Lama Monachile, the old town is worth at least half a day of your time. Narrow alleyways weave between whitewashed houses, opening unexpectedly onto sea views or tiny squares with a bar and a few plastic chairs that somehow feel like the best seat in Puglia.
It's gets extremely busy in July and August. If you can visit on a weekday morning before the day-trippers arrive from Bari, do.
Getting to Polignano a Mare by train
This is one of the easiest train journeys in Puglia, it's frequent, cheap, and stress-free. There's no real reason to spend more than €3 on this one unless you're in a hurry.
Bari Torre a Mare-Polignano a Mare
- Fastest journey time: 15 minutes
- Cost: €2.20
- Operator: Trenitalia
Monopoli
Monopoli ended up being one of my favourite towns in Puglia, which I didn't really expect. It's less famous than Polignano a Mare and gets fewer day-trippers as a result.
The old town is built right on the water, with a working harbour still full of fishing boats rather than superyachts. The Cathedral of Santa Maria della Madia sits at its centre, an impressive piece of Baroque architecture.
The beaches here are also good, which isn't something every town on this stretch can claim. Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo and Lido Santo Stefano are both worth an afternoon if you're visiting in summer.
Getting to Monopoli by train
Bari Torre a Mare-Monopoli
- Fastest journey time: 21 minutes
- Cost: €2.60
- Operator: Trenitalia
Ostuni
The fact I loved Ostuni must mean something considering it was absolutely pouring with rain when I visited.
The town earns its nickname, the White City, the moment you see it rising out of the surrounding olive groves, a hilltop mass of whitewashed buildings visible from miles away across the flat Puglian countryside.
The old town sits at the top of the hill and requires a bit of a climb, but it's worth it. Streets spiral upwards past churches, archways and small piazzas, with unexpected views over the valley opening up as you go.
The food in Ostuni is exceptional. The local olive oil is some of the best in Italy, this part of the region is covered in ancient olive trees, some over a thousand years old.
Getting to Ostuni by train
Bari Torre a Mare-Ostuni
- Fastest journey time: 34 minutes
- Cost: €6.20
- Operator: Trenitalia
Locorotondo
Locorotondo is one of my favourite towns in Puglia! It's small and quiet, it's a small town without beaches or cliffs, but it is so so beautiful.
The streets are immaculate! Whitewashed houses with dark stone doorways, flower boxes, circular lanes that loop back on themselves, it's where the town gets its name, from the Latin for "round place." Walk slowly, get a little lost, and resist the urge to rush. There's nowhere to be.
The local sparkling wine, Locorotondo DOC, is made from the vineyards you can see spreading out across the Valle d'Itria below the town. Order a glass somewhere with a view and drink it slowly.
Find the pizzeria. You'll know the right one when you see the queue.
Getting to Locorotondo by train
Bari Torre a Mare-Ostuni
- Fastest direct journey time: 1 hr 20 minutes
- Cost: €6
- Operator: Trenitalia
Bari
Bari is bigger and grittier than the other towns in this guide, and that's not a criticism. It's a real working city rather than a prettified tourist stop, and spending a day or two here before heading further south gives you a different side of Puglia.
The old town, Bari Vecchia, is worth more of your time than most people give it. It's built on a small peninsula jutting into the Adriatic, a tight maze of alleyways where older women still sit outside on chairs making orecchiette by hand, not for show, just because that's what they do.
From a practical standpoint, Bari is where you'll almost certainly start and/or end your trip. The airport connects to Bari Centrale by train in about 15 minutes, and from the central station you can reach every town in this guide without changing.
If you're deciding where to base yourself for a car-free Puglia trip, Bari makes the most logistical sense.
Getting to Bari from elsewhere in Italy
If you're combining Puglia with the rest of Italy, the connections are straightforward.
Bari Torre a Mare-Rome
- Fastest direct journey time: 4 hrs 20 minutes
- Cost: €61
Travelling Puglia by train with luggage
The honest answer is that rolling suitcases are manageable on this itinerary, but they're not always comfortable.
The streets in Monopoli, Ostuni and Locorotondo are cobbled, uneven, and sometimes steep. A hard-shell wheelie case will clatter and catch on every stone. If you can travel with a soft bag or a backpack that you can lift easily, do, your arms and your patience will thank you.
For luggage storage, I use the Bounce app every time I travel in Italy and it's never let me down. It finds local shops, cafes and businesses near you that will store your bags for a small hourly or daily fee. This is useful when you're checking out of one place and your next train isn't for a few hours, or when you want to explore a town before your accommodation is ready.
Most of the smaller stations on this route. Polignano, Monopoli, Locorotondo, don't have official left luggage facilities, so Bounce fills that gap well.
A few practical tips from experience:
- Pack lighter than you think you need to. You will be lifting your bag up and down train steps, across platforms, and along cobblestones more than once.
- Book accommodation as close to the train station or town centre as possible. A five-minute walk with a suitcase on cobbles feels considerably longer than it does on a map. Otherwise, prepare to get taxis.
- If you're staying in a masseria or a trullo outside of town, you'll almost certainly need a taxi from the station, factor that into your budget and book in advance rather than hoping one appears.
One week in Puglia by train — a suggested itinerary
A week isn't enough to see all of Puglia, but it's enough to see the best of it without feeling too rushed.
This itinerary is built around the train network, so every base and every day trip is reachable without a car. I'd recommend it in this order because the connections work well and the pace feels natural.
Days 1-3 - Monopoli
Base yourself in Monopoli rather than Bari for these first few days. It's quieter, easier to navigate, and puts you in a better position to explore the coast by train without backtracking.
The historic centre is the first thing to explore, narrow streets of whitewashed houses built right up against the harbour, with fishing boats still coming and going. The beaches here are also good: Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo and Lido Santo Stefano are both worth an afternoon in the sun.
On one of these days, take the train to Polignano a Mare, it's 5 to 10 minutes away and costs next to nothing on the Trenitalia regional service. Once you're there, book a boat trip along the coastline. We went with Pugliamare and spent a couple of hours exploring sea grottos and jumping into the Adriatic to cool off.
Places to stay in Monopoli:
Where to stay in Monopoli
Hotel Don Ferrante is a boutique hotel in the heart of the old town with sea views, it's the best positioned hotel in Monopoli and worth it if the budget allows.
For something more affordable, B&B Borgo San Martino is housed in a restored 17th century building just 300 metres from the port, it's well run, comfy, and good value.
If you want something special and don't mind being slightly outside the town, Borgo Egnazia has two private beaches and its own beach club. It's a serious splurge but one of the best hotels in Puglia.
Days 4-6 - Locorotondo
Locorotondo is my favourite stop on this itinerary. It's small, you can walk the entire historic centre in under an hour. The circular old town of whitewashed houses and dark stone doorways sits above a valley of vineyards. Drink the local sparkling wine, eat well, and use it as a base for day trips.
The non-negotiable day trip from here is Alberobello, just 11 minutes away by train. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the trulli, the distinctive conical stone houses that have become one of the most recognisable images of southern Italy.
It gets busy in the middle of the day in summer, so take the first train and get there early.
Back in Locorotondo itself, eat in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, explore the churches tucked down the side streets, and find the pizzeria with the queue outside. That's the one to go to.
Places to stay in Locorotondo:
Pietra Pesara is a beautiful guesthouse with a private garden and a good breakfast.
Ottolire Resort has a swimming pool and only 14 rooms, so it feels really calm.
Leonardo Trulli Resort is the most characterful option, built into traditional trulli with a quiet, unhurried atmosphere.
Day 7 - Ostuni
You'll see Ostuni before you arrive. The white hilltop town rises out of the flat countryside and ancient olive groves from miles around.
The old town requires a climb but rewards it with views across the valley and a maze of well-preserved streets that in summer are lined with pink bougainvillea spilling over doorways. If you want context for what you're looking at, an ape tour, a tuk-tuk guided ride through the streets and up to the viewpoints, is worth the hour.
For dinner, go to Borgo Antico Bistrot. You can't book, they're closed on Wednesdays, and there will probably be a wait. It doesn't matter. The food is made from whatever the local producers brought in that day, eaten outside as the sun goes down over the valley.
Places to stay in Ostuni:
Biancadamare has terraces and jacuzzis with views over the white city, good if you want to sit outside and look at Ostuni rather than being inside it.
Paragon 700 is a boutique hotel inside a converted old palace with 11 rooms, quietly luxurious without being too showy.
For something more rural, Masseria Cervarolo is a 16th century farmhouse with its own cooking school, a good option if you're extending your trip and want to slow right down.
FAQs: Visiting Puglia without a car
1. Do you really need a car in Puglia?
No you don't need a car in Puglia, but it depends on what you want to see. The coastal towns between Bari and Lecce, Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Ostuni, Locorotondo, are all easily reachable by train without any issues.
If you want to visit more remote areas like the Salento coast beaches, rural masserias, or some of the smaller inland villages, a car gives you significantly more flexibility. For a first trip focused on the highlights, a car isn't necessary.
2. Which cities in Puglia are best to visit without a car?
Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, Locorotondo, Lecce and Bari are all well connected by train and easy to navigate on foot once you arrive. These are the towns I'd build a car-free itinerary around.
3. Can you get to Alberobello without a car?
Yes. Alberobello has its own train station and is reachable from Locorotondo in around 11 minutes, or from Bari in around 1 hour 20 minutes on the FSE regional line. It's one of the easier inland towns to visit without a car.
4. How do you get around Puglia by train?
Trenitalia runs the main intercity services between Bari, Brindisi and Lecce. For smaller coastal towns like Polignano and Monopoli, the slower regional Trenitalia services are cheap and frequent.
The FSE (Ferrovie del Sud Est) network covers some of the inland towns including Locorotondo and Alberobello, these trains are slower and less frequent, so check timetables in advance.
5. How many days do you need in Puglia?
A week gives you enough time to cover the main highlights without rushing. If you're travelling without a car and want to include both the coast and the inland Valle d'Itria towns, I'd say seven days is the minimum to do it comfortably.
6. Is Puglia good for solo travellers?
Puglia is one of the better regions in Italy for solo travel. The towns are safe, easy to navigate, and the train network means you're not dependent on anyone else. It's the kind of place where sitting alone at a restaurant with a glass of local wine feels entirely natural rather than awkward.
7. What is the best base in Puglia without a car?
Monopoli is my recommendation for a first trip. It has good train connections in both directions, decent beaches, a beautiful old town, and enough restaurants and bars to keep you happy without feeling overrun with tourists. Bari works well if you want maximum transport flexibility, and Lecce is the best base if you're focusing on the southern Salento area.
8. Is it easy to get from Bari airport to Puglia by train?
Yes. A direct train connects Bari airport to Bari Centrale in around 15 minutes. From there you can pick up connections to the rest of the region. It's straightforward and there's no need to book a transfer.
Thank you for writing this! It’s my plan to go here next year…so I will be following your advice. What a perfect itinerary!
You will love it! Keep your eye out for some more upcoming articles 🙂
Hello! This article comes in so handy! I am planning a trip to Puglia and we do not want to rent a car for the entire trip. I was going to search your account and see if you had posted since you recently visited Matera. Thank you so much! Looking forward to your next trips.
I hope you have an amazing trip, it is a beautiful corner of the world!
Thanks Hannah!!
I just decided to visit Puglia next year and your article has come in handy thank you.
I hope you have an amazing trip!
Such a wonderful article! We are planning 3 weeks in Puglia by train. Do you have a suggestion of 1 or 2 locations to stay in order to make the most our of our stay?